The baguette faces an uncertain future. How France is rethinking its iconic loaves. French president Emmanuel Macron hailed the baguette as “250 grams of magic and perfection in our daily lives” on social media, accompanied by an iconic vintage black-and-white Willy Ronis photo of a jubilant little French boy captured mid-run with a long baguette tucked under his tiny arm.
But the #UNESCO victory, which saw the artisanal know-how of French breadmaking and the culture of the baguette inscribed in its intangible cultural heritage list, appears to have done little to reverse the ongoing decline of bread consumption in France, generating headlines like, “Will bread disappear from French tables?” in French food media.
Historically, the French ate an average of 25 ounces of bread per person, per day in the years following World War II. According to the Federation of Bakery Entrepreneurs, by 2015 that number plummeted to 4 ounces. Today, that figure has dropped again to 3.5 ounces, equal to a little less than half a baguette a day.
In a 2023 consumer survey released by the National Confederation of French Bakeries and Pastry Shops (CNBPF), more than a third (36 per cent) of the 1,000 respondents also said they had reduced their bread consumption over the last five years.
Industry experts say it’s a trend driven by changing eating habits, along with a new generation of “neobakers,” some of whom are opting to take baguettes off their shelves entirely, and the growing popularity of the baguette’s American rival, processed sliced white bread.
“One of the threats is the fact that young people are losing the habit of buying a baguette every day,” says Dominique Anract, president of the CNBPF.
Daily baguette runs to the local bakery — an errand that Anract says used to be as automatic and ritualistic as brushing teeth — have become less frequent.
But this is especially true of younger generations, who are cooking less and eating out more.
“In the past, even students cooked for themselves. There was no snacking, no ‘world food,’ no burgers, kebabs or sushi. But more and more young people are turning towards fast food,” he says.
A boulangerie with no baguettes?
Traditionally, baguettes are eaten as open-faced tartines at breakfast, slathered with butter and jam, or chocolate hazelnut spread. At lunch, they’re stuffed with ham, tuna, chicken or cheese for a take-out baguette sandwich. And at dinner, they’re the indispensable accompaniment to a traditional saucy French meal like a blanquette de veau (veal stew) or beef bourguignon, in which hunks of bread are used to mop up any remaining sauce on the plate — a gesture that has its own verb, called “saucer.”
“We see that these young people are very happy to have the traditional baguette on weekends when they visit their parents, so it is appreciated. But life has become more modern and there are different options for eating out without bread,” Anract says.
In recent years, there’s been another noteworthy shift that is changing France’s relationship to bread: the rise of “neoboulangeries” or neo-bakeries. This new generation is baking with ancient grains and organic flour, selling aromatic, long-fermented sourdough loaves and making fewer baguettes — if any at all.
Seize Heures Trente Pâtisserie-Boulangerie in Rennes is one of several bakeries across France that have made headlines for having the audacity not to sell baguettes.
When pastry chef and owner Marion Juhel expanded her pastry shop into a bakery two years ago, she made the deliberate decision not to offer baguettes. For Juhel, it’s an energy-intensive product with little nutritional value, and has a short shelf life which leads to one of her biggest pet peeves: excessive food waste.
Instead, large sourdough breads and whole grain loaves made with local, organic flour are sold by weight. Along with staying fresher for longer, the breads, which weigh up to 7 pounds, feed more households, are better for digestion thanks to longer fermentation times that break down gluten, and just taste better, she added.
But for some, the idea of a baguette-free French bakery was hard to swallow. Juhel recalls one man who flew into a rage when he was told they didn’t make any. She had to ask him to leave.
“There was a real need to educate customers so that they understood our approach,” Juhel told CNN. “It’s true that French people expect a bakery to have baguettes. And the fact that we proclaimed to be a bakery and didn’t have them was inconceivable to them.”
Global News on Umojja.com